The Winners

Here are my final two images for DIRTY SAINT - BLUE, YELLOW and BRONZE

These images stood out to me the most due to the positioning of the models and their faces, showcasing my makeup skills and techniques as well as looking beautiful...

This project has been so much fun and has been so interesting to see another one of my ideas and drawings come to life!

Fingers crossed for the Illamasqua Competition...

Minnie x

The Finalists

The next step is to choose the images I feel projects my words and colours as well as would be the perfect campaign image for Illamasqua.

Here are a couple of the final images...

ENJOY x

BEAUTY

FANTASY

Pulling back for Beauty

For the beauty look, I still wanted to keep the same feel of 'dirty saint' apparent. This one has to be the hardest in terms of design when trying to keep the concept. I wanted to create a beautiful makeup that can be worn out.

The Makeup

First I started with the perfect base using concealer and illamasqua's rich liquid foundation in three colours. Colour 200 on the cheeks, above the cheekbones, down the nose and on the chin. I then used the foundation in colour 320 on the sides of the forehead, under the cheekbones and down either sides of the nose and blended. This gives shape, structure and highlight to the face.

To give the face even more of a glow I used the duo bronzer palette to contour the forehead and the cheekbones. I added a touch of the liquid metal in bronze for a light reflecting edge.

Using the yellow pencil I lined the lips and coloured them in adding some lip balm to soften them.

On the eyes I started with an all over pearl colour and shaded with a golden bronze eyeshadow. Around the socket of the eye I used the liquid metal again to create a cat flick inspired shape for the shadow.

On the water line I used a blue pencil and added a small line of eye shadow underneath the lashes. I coated the lashes with some mascara to make the eyes pop.

I added a couple of layers of yellow eye shadow one the lips I create a velvet matt effect.

The Hair

First I decided to use a wig to create a Bold dark statement with the hair. And to wrap a cross studded belt around the next to take a twist on the dirty saint meaning and give it sexual connotations.

After taking a few images I decided to leave the hair looking natural and curly as my models hair was Afro Caribbean hair. I then put the belt around her neck tucking her hair inside and it made the makeup pop out. I realised the hair was taking the attention away from the makeup.

A few of the images I took to get the final look...

Shaping the Fantasy

In order to really get the right image, I decided to create final face chart onto the face and make changes during the shooting process until I had my final image. 

The Chosen Face Chart

The look from the start

MAKEUP

I started with a completely clean skin by using cleansers and toners to remove and excess dirty, grease or makeup from the face and chest. 

Using Illamasqua's Satin Primer, I prepped the face. My next step was created the perfect base.

I added a few dabs of rich liquid foundation in white on the T-zone, cheeks and on top of the cheekbones and the chin. I then used a mixing palette and created a light blue foundation. I added this around the forehead, below the cheekbones and then blended the two together.

I added white foundation on to the chest in a V shape to highlight the collar bones and to her a saintly appearance. I then added the blue foundation around the shoulders, arms and chest and blended again.

Using Illamasqua's powder eye shadow the heavily contour the face, chest and collar bones to create a statue like sculpted appearance.

Using the yellow eye shadow, I covered the eyelids and shaded around the shape of the eye bringing it down slightly with the contour on the nose.

Bronze liquid metal was used as a slight contour down the nose also and as a highlight for the cheekbones and collar bones.

I used illamasqua's blue pencil along the waterline of the eye to make the eyes pop subtly. 

I used the liquid metal again all over the lips and added a few dabs of yellow eye shadow in the center of the mouth. I shaded around the mouth with the blue eye shadow to bring the shape out.

HAIR

I brushed the hair out away from the face and covered it on fullers earth mixed with water to create the cracked and statue like effect. After leaving it to dry for a few minutes and using a hair dryer to speed up the process, I then covered the hair in liquid metal for the bronzed colour and added a plait at the back of the hair.

I also used the fullers earth on the skin, up the arm and the side of the face to the hairline to connect the hair and makeup. 

I pinned in a rosary bead necklace to add to the saint look.

HANDS AND NAILS

I painted the nails in yellow and used liquid metal to add bronze tips to them. The inside of the hand is all painted in liquid metal to portray the dirty look and the arm was coloured in blue foundation. I used an eye shadow in blue to give more depth and shading the the arm and the hand.

THE DEVELOPMENT

When under the lights in the studio, the makeup can change and subtle contouring or shading can disappear. These images above show how I added colours and more makeup to finally create the kind of lips I was wanting for the final look.

I changed the hair a few times to see what kind of style would suit the makeup better, what textures and colours I could play with. Here are six of the different colours and styles I decided to play with during the shoot.

Beautify Me

Beauty looks from S/S 13 and the beautiful MAC campaign on the right hand side. 

These are the colours that I have been given and ones that have been used on the catwalks this season...

I decided to try out my own beauty makeup using my colours.

Using Illamasqua liquid metal in bronze all over the eyelid and under the waterline. I used a dark brown eye shadow to shade around the eye socket to create shadows. I added a dab of neon yellow in the corner of the eye for a pop of colour.

Using a dark brown pencil, I lined the lips and then used Illamasqua's liquid metal, I used the brown liner to blend into a lighter colour.

I decided to add more yellow shadow on the top of the eyelid to see how that looked for more of a contrast against the two colours.

I used skin base foundation and slightly contoured the cheeks with Illamasqua's bronzing duo and highlighted under the brow with the powder highlighter by MUA.

I added more liquid metal on the cheeks and down the nose for a heavier contour.

I wanted to create a matt effect on the lips, for a dirty look. 

I did half and half on the face to see I tested out a darker blue blended into a lighter blue around the eye and underneath next to the waterline.

Explosion of Ideas

FANTASY
After looking at images I previously uploaded, statue's textures and colours, I have created a couple of ideas exploring different colour around the face. Swapping between blue contouring, yellow bases, bronze highlighting and adding a cracked effect around the face.

Yellow skin using rich liquid foundation and yellow eye shadow. Bronze cracks up the neck and around the face using liquid metal, mixed blue lips using disciple lipstick and the eye shadow for an ombre effect. Bronze highlighter with contrasting blue contouring. Bright blue ears to bring out the lips and contouring. The hair will be clipped into a roll type shape and pinned to the back of the hair for a statue type look.

Nude (yellow skin toned foundation) on the face and body with golden shading and highlighting using the liquid metal. Blue cracks and lines around the face with the a liner and a yellow highlight using their eye shadow. 

Hair will be covered underneath a nun-like scarf to highlight her saint like appearance.

Blue skin tone using rich liquid foundation and blue eye shadow with darker shading and contouring with just the powdered shadow. Golden yellow and bronze lips, yellow highlighting, blue cracks using the liner pencil up the arm and across the face. Yellow textured hair by using fullers earth to create a broken statue effect.

My final design is my favourite so far, using Illamasqua's white rich liquid foundation, I can mix in the blue eyshadow to create a blue base. Using the powder eye shadow I can create heaving contouring around the forehead, cheeks, the collar bones and underneath the neckline.

The yellow eyeshadow will make the eyes pop and match together with the hair and her ears. I will use a highlighter and the bronze liquid metal to reflect the light.

The lips will be bronze with a touch of yellow in the middle and blue shading around the outline and the inside of the lips to make them pop.

BEAUTY

First design, Bronze and brown shading around the eyes with a bold bright yellow center to contrast. Bright blue ombre style lips, bronze eyebrows and bronze hair. Heavy contouring

Second design, using a cross belt over the head and styling the hair reflecting as a nun's habit. The eyebrows will be dark and strongly shaped with highlighting underneath.

The eyes will be light and dark shading of blues around the eyes with a acid yellow line across the eyes waterline for a sharp but subtle contrast. The lips will be matt yellow using powdered eye shadow.

The final design so far for the beauty look, I will use a blue wig and finger wave the front of the hair. The eyebrows will be a natural brown colour and the eyes will be shaped with a strong yellow eye liner around the socket of the eye and the underneath. I will add a hint of blue to the end of the eyelashes for a subtle pop of colour and also to bring out the eyes.

The shading will be bronze around the contouring areas such as down the nose, the cheekbones and on the forehead. The lips will be shiny bright yellow...

Testing

I decided to experiment a little with my own makeup and try wearing a blue lipstick for the day to see how confident I felt myself and to see how other people reacted to it.

At firstly I was slightly apprehensive as I only usually wear a nude lipstick during the day and dark reds in the evening but I actually felt really comfortable wearing this colour. I would happily wear it again during in the day and definitely on a night out. Could my beauty look be one that helps create a more acceptable opinion of blue lipstick... I wish!

Testing on the skin...

Here I used Rich Liquid Foundation and combined their powder eye shadow in Sadist to create a blue foundation. For the contouring I used their contouring brush and applied Sadist again but in powder form under the cheek bones and down the nose. 

I used their lip brush and a light brown eyeliner to line my lips before applying a couple of layers on the liquid metal in bronze.

As a test I filled in the cupids bow in a navy blue eyeliner pen and filled in the dimple between my nose and mouth with a dab of the blue powder eye shadow.

I then did a couple more tests using the navy eyeliner to see the contrast in colours. I used the eye shadow in yellow to highlight the cheekbones and below to the eyebrow to see how well the colours worked together.

Here are a couple of images of when I used the liquid metal in bronze and gold to created a heavily contoured and highlighted look...

Again, I used the bronze colour as lipstick...

Testing plaits on the hair with fullers earth spread on top of it...

DISColour

YELLOW - MIDNIGHT BLUE - BRONZE


Colour moodboard

After looking at saint statues of Saints and Angels and how they change in colour over time, I decided to take a more in depth approach to designing my looks.
Discolouration of the skin, hair and nail, the patterns and shapes it can make...

Pigmentation of the skin

An imbalance of pigments in the skin and the hair follicles causing them to turn white, losing their colour

Yellowing of the nails due to smoking, unhealthy diet, lack of nutrients. This can be seen as a link to my first word - dirty.

 

All these images can help me design new hair, makeup and nail designs for my Illamasqua fantasy look using the three colours I have been given.

Also, linking to my word dirty, I have found another few images which show blue mould. Another inspiration for my designing

Mouldy Lemons, rigid and rough looking texture.

Decay and softening

Moving on to the colour bronze. Here are some images I have found of Bronze metal which I found interesting in colour change and texture

Scaly, indented texture with discolouration of blues and pinks

A picture of an antique bronze Cross with Jesus on the front

The bronze part of my makeup I am wanting to balance out against the dirty looking colours of yellow and blue. I want to the bronze to reflect the light and give the look a beautiful edge.


Beautiful Colours and Textures